Despite the comparatively low height of 4710 meters, Ushba is considered as one of the most challenging summits in the whole Caucasus. Those who climbed the top deserved a particular respect among professional climbers. Read further if you want to become one of them!
How to Approach Ushba?
Although Ushba is located at the Main Caucasian Range, the summit is accessible to climb only from the Georgian side nowadays. Approach the mountain from the Upper Svaneti region. Start your climb from the Mazeri Village, which is located just 18 km from Mestia. It’s the nearest locality to the severe mountain.
Two Ways to Climb
Likewise Elbrus, Ushba has a double summit. Thanks to the spire-shaped top, this mountain is often unofficially called “Matterhorn of the Caucasus.” Sounds thrilling, isn’t it?
Northeast Ridge (4A)
Most adventurers prefer to climb the northern summit, which is 20 meters lower than the southern one. Even though the difference in the altitude is not significant, the way to the north peak is more accessible for climbers. Following this route, you will be on top in 8-16 hours depending on your skills.
Southern Wall (5B)
Dare to climb the Southern Wall only if you have extensive experience in climbing and a lot of confidence. Plan two days for this itinerary. The legendary Georgian climber Mikhail Khergiani was the first who coped with this route. No wonder there is a museum in Mestia dedicated to him.
Nevertheless, both summits of Ushba require intensive climbing training and skills in using the equipment. Accept the challenge, and take care!