Mount Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu from Gokyo Ri Photo: McKay SavageMt. Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth highest peak stands at 8,188m above sea level. It is located on the Tibet-Nepal border. At the Khumbu sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalaya, it is the westernmost major peak, 20km west of Mt. Everest. It is claimed to be the easiest eight thousander to summit due to its relatively easy access and minimal technical sections. Death Rate Cho Oyu 1.4% Mt. Cho Oyu has had about 3,138 successful ascents with 44 fatalities recorded. It has a death rate of 1.4% which is the least among the 14 - eight thousander peaks. Most of these deaths have been caused by falls, avalanches and altitude sickness. Other minor causes are exhaustion, hypothermia and crevasse falls.
Best Time to Climb Mt. Cho OyuThere are two seasons, pre-monsoon and post-monsoon. The months of May through to June are warmer, however there’s time limitation considering the upcoming monsoon. The post-monsoon (September-October) offers more stable weather conditions with clear skies. You may need to watch out for the ferocious winter storms though.
Worst Time to Climb Mt. Cho OyuThere have been successful winter attempts and ascents, but some have resulted in tragedy. Frost bite and rapid weather changes are not to be risked during winter.
Mount Gasherbrum IIMt. Gasherbrum II is the world’s 13th highest mountain with an elevation of 8,035m above sea level. It is located in the Karakoram Range on the Pakistan-China border in Gilgit-Baltistan Province and Xingjian, respectively. It is also Gasherbrum massif’s third- highest peak. It is claimed to be the most straight-forward of the fourteen peaks above 8,000m and climbers enjoy a reasonable summit success rate. It was first climbed in 1956 by an Austrian expedition.
Gasherbrum II Death rate 2.3%Gasherbrum II has had 930 successful ascents with 21 fatalities. Its current death rate is 2.3% Most of these deaths have been caused by falls and avalanches. Heart failure, extreme cold and exhaustion are other additional causes. Others disappeared.
Best Time to Climb Mt. Gasherbrum IIIn Pakistan, summer season is the best to attempt a climb. The season starts in May all through to early September.
Worst Time to Climb Mt. Gasherbrum IIThe first documented winter summit took place in 2011. Winter has always been said to be the worst time to climb this peak. However, a few successful attempts have been made despite the huge risks. Unless you are an experienced mountaineer, stick to the summer season.
Lhotse and his big neighbour Everest Photo by Guillaume BaviereMt. Lhotse lies on the Tibet-Nepal border and stands at 8,56m above sea level. It is the world’s fourth highest mountain. The east-west crest of this mountain lies on the south side of Mt. Everest and has been mostly mistaken as the Everest massif’s south peak. It has three main summits; Lhotse Main, Lhotse Middle and Lhotse Shar. The first climbing attempt was in 1955, while the first summit was in May, 1956.
Mount Lhotse Death rate 2.8%In 2008, the total number of climbers who had successfully summited the mountain was 271. 20 deaths had been recorded by the said period. In the years 2014-2016, climbing escapades had been halted due to a series of fatal incidents but were later resumed in 2017. About 27 people have lost their lives to date.
Best Time to Climb Mt. LhotseLike many other Himalayan peaks, the best climbing periods are before the monsoon season begins, that is April to May. The post-monsoon season can also be ideal in the months of September through to October.
Worst Time to Climb Mt. LhotseWinter season is normally the worst time to climb any Himalayan peak. This means that Mt. Lhotse too is off limits at this time.
Mount EverestMt. Everest - the world’s highest peak above sea level, stands at a whopping 8,848m. It is located on the border between China and Nepal. It mainly consists of rocks that have been faulted southwards, both metamorphic and sedimentary.
Mt. Everest Death rate 6.0%Due to this peak’s elevation, many climbers have found themselves under its magnetic allure. Many experienced climbers attempt the summit. However, there are many dangers that are associated with the climb. Most accidents happen during the descent. Avalanches, high speed winds, icefall, altitude sickness and crevasses are among the fatal hazards climbers encounter. The mountain has claimed almost 300 lives as of 2017. Most deaths occur during descent. Its current death rate is 6.0% with about 5,700 successful ascents. <2018 red.> Best Time to Climb Mt. Everest The period between April and May are ideal to summit Mt. Everest. Most attempts are made in the month of May before the monsoon season begins. The high speed winds are reduced when the jet stream shifts upwards. September and October can also be ideal periods to summit after the monsoon. Worst Time to Climb Mt. Everest The autumn period is said to be the most dangerous time to attempt a climb. This is because it is after the monsoon season when lots of snow has been deposited and the weather is mostly unstable. High summit weather conditions can be quite unpredictable as well.
Mount Broad Peak
Broad Peak - the world’s 12th highest mountain, lies in the Karakoram Range, 8km from Mt. K2 on the China-Pakistan border. It has an elevation of 8,047m above sea level. The mountain is home to several summits including Broad peak, Broad Peak Central, Broad Peak North, Rocky Summit and Kharut Kangri. It was first climbed in 1957. The name is in reference to the similarly named Breithorn in the Alps.
Death Rate on Mt. Broad Peak is 5.3%Broad Peak has a death rate of 5.3%. It has had 404 successful summits with 21 fatalities. A large number of these deaths have been caused by falls and avalanches. 3 climbers lost their lives during descent due to extremely bad weather. 2 of them drowned in a glacier stream. Exhaustion and pulmonary edema claimed 2 more lives. Others just disappeared. Best Time to Climb Mt. Broad Peak The months of June through to September are ideal to summit Broad Peak. Worst Time to Climb Mt. Broad Peak The first winter summit took place as recent as 2013. A Spanish team had earlier attempted an ascent in 2003 but was forced to turn back due to extreme winds and cold temperatures. Several camps got destroyed but no lives were lost. Despite a few winter successes, you are advised to stay away from these Himalayan peaks.
photo by John Town
Mt. Shishapangma has an elevation of 8,027m above sea level. It is the world’s 14th highest mountain after Gasherbrum II. Also known as Gosainthan, it is the highest peak in Langtang Himal and the last peak of the 14 eight-thousanders to be climbed. It is located in the south-central part of Tibet about 5km from the Nepal border. It is the only peak among “the fourteen” that is entirely within Chinese territory. It was first climbed in 1964 by a Chinese expedition.
Death Rate on Mt. Shishapangma is 8.4%Mt. Shishapangma has a current date rate of 8.4%. It has had 302 successful ascents with 25 fatalities. Most of these deaths have been attributed to avalanches and falls. Crevasse falls and altitude sickness have also claimed a number of lives. Others disappeared.
Best Time to Climb Mt. ShishapangmaThe pre-monsoon season of the months of April through to May are ideal for summiting this peak. Possibly the beginning of June as well. The second season for expeditions is the month of October after the monsoon.
Worst Time to Climb Mt. ShishapangmaThe first documented winter summit took place in 2005. The unstable weather conditions during winter make it the worst time to attempt an ascent.
Makalu photo by Ben TubbyMt. Makalu is the world’s fifth highest peak standing at 8,463m above sea level. This magnificent mountain lies 19km south east of Everest in the Mahalangur Himalayas, specifically in the Khumbu region on the Tibet-China-Nepal border. This mountain is spectacular due its perfect pyramidal shape accentuated by the four sharp ridges. Its first summit ascent was in 1955 after Everest was conquered in 1953.
Death Rate on Mt. Makalu is 8.9%This peak is a technical climb with only 5 successful ascents of the first 16 attempts. A total of 22 fatalities have been recorded and successful ascents to date are 206. The deaths have been linked to crevasse falls, exhaustion, rock falls, altitude sickness, avalanches, falls and pneumonia. Best Time to Climb Mt. Makalu Best time to attempt a summit is in the months of April and May (pre-monsoon season) and from late September through to October (post-monsoon season). Worst Time to Climb Mt. Makalu Winter season in the Himalayas region is a dangerous period to attempt an ascent. Mt. Makalu is no exception. High speed winds near the summit can be fatal during winter. Plus low atmospheric pressure and highly unpredictable weather decreases your chances of a successful climb.
Mount Gasherbrum I
Gasherbrum I photo by Ivan ZhdanovMt. Gasherbrum I – the beautiful mountain, has an elevation of 8,080m above sea level. It is located on the China-Pakistan border, in Xingjian and Gilgit-Baltistan regions, respectively. Also known as Hidden Peak, it is the world’s 11th highest mountain after Annapurna I. It is also the second highest peak in the Karakoram Range. Mt. Gasherbrum I is home to 6 peaks and is the venue of the first pure Alpine Style climb of the world’s 8000m. This means it was climbed from the bottom with no supplemental oxygen, just personal gear. Whoa! It was first climbed in 1958.